Honestly, planning this trip nearly made me pull my hair out. Woke up stupid early in Ankara, bleary-eyed and wrestling with a rental car GPS that seemed actively hostile. Typed in “Hattusa,” it just kept blinking at me. Finally found one that offered Turkish directions only – fantastic, my Turkish is basically limited to “hello,” “thank you,” and “more tea please.” Grabbed a sim card at the airport, total lifesaver.
The Brutal Winter Reality Check
Let me tell you, rolling up to the ruins in February was like stepping into a fridge. Mistake number one: packing that fancy thin jacket thinking “Turkey, how cold can it be?” Mistake number two: underestimating the central Anatolian plateau. The wind whipped across those open fields near the Lion’s Gate, biting through my layers like they were tissue paper. My fingers went numb trying to take pictures of the Sphinx Gate. Could barely hold my phone steady. Forget enjoying the intricate stone carvings on the King’s Gate – I was just trying not to become a human ice statue. My breath froze in little clouds. “Majestic” they said. “Yeah right,” I thought, huddled near a rare patch of weak sunlight.
- Cold like knives: Wind chill made it feel way below zero. Any exposed skin screamed.
- Slippery surprise: Patches of ice hiding under brown grass near the Kadesh Treaty walls. Almost kissed the ancient stones… painfully.
- Solitude extreme: Saw maybe two other mad souls braving it besides the bundled-up ticket guy in his booth.
I cut that visit brutally short. Ran back to the warm sanctuary of the rental car faster than a scared rabbit. Lesson hammered home: winter visits are strictly for the polar bear club members. Not me.
The Redemption Trip: Autumn Gold
Couldn’t let that disaster be my only memory of Hattusa. Came back later, mid-October. Different planet entirely. Got out of the car near Yazılıkaya, felt actual warmth! The air was crisp, clean, and smelled like dry earth and grass. Perfect for walking miles.
The colors man, the colors! The whole plateau was painted in dusty golds and soft browns. The green valleys nearby looked stunning against the stone ruins. Walking the city walls felt amazing, sun warm on my back, breeze gentle. Unlike February’s ghost town, a decent crowd wandered around – tour groups, backpackers, locals enjoying a day out. Plenty of breathing room still. Saw a family picnicking near the Green Stone.
The light! Afternoon sun hitting the Lion Gate? Absolutely magical. Got photos worth framing this time. Even sat near the Great Temple ruins just soaking it in, listening to the wind whistle through the stones. Grabbed a simple but fantastic gözleme (thin stuffed pancake) from the little place just down the road afterwards.
Insider Grit: Locals confirmed what I felt later chatting over çay back in town. Said spring (April-May) is even greener, flowers popping, really nice. But also warned May onwards can get seriously hot and dusty until autumn rolls back around. Autumn (late Sept to early Nov) gives you those comfy temps and avoids the peak heat and crowds.
So yeah, after getting slapped by winter and embraced by autumn, my take is simple: unless you love winter extremes, avoid Nov-Mar. Aim for spring comfort or autumn magic. My boots vote hard for October – perfect for hiking and not sweating buckets.
