Alright folks, let me walk you through how I tackled Tyre and Sidon last week. Woke up stupid early – like 4:30 AM early – because crossing into Lebanon from Israel ain’t quick. Grabbed my beat-up backpack, camera, and way too many snacks. Drove to the northern border crossing, Rosh HaNikra. Let me tell ya, that queue was brutal. Sat there for almost three hours just blinking in the morning sun. Felt like my brain was melting.
The Border Shuffle & Getting My Bearings
Finally got through the checkpoint around 9 AM. Changed some cash – you gotta haggle a bit here, don’t just accept the first rate they throw at you – and grabbed a local SIM card. Rented a little car right there; trust me, you want wheels for this adventure. Navigation? Forget fancy apps. Old-school paper map and asking directions saved my skin. Drove straight down the coast towards Tyre, blasting some local radio that was mostly static. First impressions? Colors. So much blue sea and that crazy golden light.
Hitting Tyre’s Time Machines
Tyre first, Sidon later. That was the plan. First stop: The Al-Bass Necropolis. Pulled up, paid a small entry fee – like pocket change, seriously. Boom. Right there. Miles of ancient stone coffins just sitting under the sky. Weirdly peaceful. Touched the carvings; felt crazy smooth from centuries of weather. Next up, the Hippodrome. Massive. Tried picturing chariots screaming past. Impossible. Just sheer size blows your mind. My stomach growled loud enough to scare pigeons, so I found this dusty little roadside place nearby.
My Tyre Must-Sees:
- Al-Bass Necropolis: Spent an hour wandering lanes of tombs. Best light is late afternoon, but I made do.
- The Hippodrome: Walked the whole track. Imagined the roar. Sun was blazing. Hydrated like crazy.
- Tyre Harbour: Drove right down after lunch. Phœnician stones underwater? Crystal clear water? Magical. Saw fishermen fixing nets. Bought some insanely sweet figs.
Swinging Over to Sidon
Hopped back in the car around 2 PM. Coast road towards Sidon is beautiful, honestly. Pulled into Sidon feeling kinda tired but pushed through. Sidon feels grittier. Lived-in. Sidon Sea Castle was the target. Parked nearby, fought off some overly enthusiastic “helpers,” paid the entry. That castle rising out of the waves? Iconic. Walked every crumbling corridor, climbed the worn steps. Sea spray hitting your face? Perfect.
Sidon Spots I Actually Visited:
- Sidon Sea Castle: Explored every nook, even the slightly scary bits where stones looked loose. Views are killer.
- Sidon Soap Museum: Okay, this one sounded niche but it was actually cool! Got lost trying to find it in the souk first, naturally. Ancient olive oil soap? Fascinating. Smelled amazing. Bought way too many bars as gifts. The shopkeeper poured thick coffee while explaining the process – spilled half on my shirt.
Wrapping Up & Reality Checks
By 5 PM, my feet were screaming. Ditched the plan for Khan al-Franj (next time!). Found a hole-in-the-wall café near the old souk. Ate grilled fish fresh off the boat. Heavenly. Cheap. People-watched as the sun dipped. Drive back north to the border felt longer; nighttime crossings feel more tense somehow, more stops. Made it back to my side close to midnight. Exhausted. Stinky. Thrilled.
Was it smooth? Heck no. Border sucked. Got lost twice. Spilled coffee on myself. Forgot my hat and got scorched. But those stones? That sea? Smelling history where Tyrian purple was made? Unreal. My tips? Start stupid early, rent the car, bring serious water, wear shoes you can destroy, and talk to people – they pointed me to the best fish stall. Don’t overplan; just show up and let the place happen to you. Ancient sites + real life smacking you in the face? That’s the magic.
